How a disastrous morning at Mavericks led to the biggest wave of my life
By Kyle Thiermann

I’ve been deaf for a week now. This is what it’s like. People often ask me about the risks associated with surfing: Drowning, great whites, giant ...

How a Podcast Correspondence Can Come Back To Bite You
By Kyle Thiermann

My First Attempt at River Surfing in Montana I imagined that Missoula surfers would be a tough crowd. It's a blue-collar hunting town, after all. P...

“When I visit a new city, I tend to eat my way through it,” he once said while sauntering through a dank alleyway in some far-off land. The camera ...

When I was 11 years old, my mom moved into a house that was a 10-minute walk away from the famed Santa Cruz surf spot Steamer’s Lane, and I quickly...

I finished my Wyoming mule deer hunt not with a heroic roar but with a whimper. After five days of hard hunting I never got in range of an animal. ...

 An iconic photograph can define an era through the story it tells. The twin towers collapsing. The first photo of the Earth from space. A lesser-k...

On Taking Psychedelics with My Brother When I was 18 years old I moved into an old surf shack a few blocks away from the beach in Santa Cruz, Calif...

“Mold experience into stories as a mnemonic device. Travel is a chaos of experience, momentarily memorable and distressing in its capacity to flee ...